The WenHai Ecolodge

Lying a mere 5 miles from us (as the crow flies of course) over a formidable ridge is a truly sublime valley known as WenHai. Access is by foot, horse or jeep. We opted for two out of three and met our guide and his trusty horse xiao hu (Little Tiger) about 10 miles north of Lijiang in a small village called Yuhu. We ascended 2000' through blooming rhododendron forests trying to keep up with Li on Little Tiger and his owner Mr. He. After a few hours we were treated to the site of WenHai Valley. We feel fortunate that the seasonal lake which fills much of the valley floor still contained some water. Within a few weeks it will be dry until the rains come again. During the steep descent into the valley Mr. He became the horse as he piggy backed Li and let Little Tiger negotiate his own way.

We arrived in time for a late lunch prepared by Mr. He's wife. Given the number of cell phone calls he answered on the way we suspect she was keeping very close tabs on his progress. We stayed at a place called the WenHai Ecolodge. It is a village cooperative run by 59 of the 65 families in the valley's villages. Various contributors have helped to fund and organize the project from The Nature Conservancy to UC Davis to the Japanese Government. Each member family must contribute a yearly quota of work and in return shares the income. The lodge is a simple converted Naxi courtyard style house, but the food was good and the beds were surprisingly comfortable. We immediately made friends with the resident dog and cat. The Ecolodge earns its name for its use of human and animal waste in biogas to create methane for cooking gas. Food is grown on site and a solar collecting tank provides hot showers. A bed for one night and three meals runs about $18/person.

The Valley is part of a larger nature preserve and we spent the afternoon wandering the grassy fields among sheep, horses, cows and pigs. Li's aim improved significantly after an hour's practice throwing mud chips into the retreating lake.

This morning we again enlisted Mr. He and Little Tiger's help to head home (that is after Little Tiger was found since he chewed through his halter and headed down valley to hang out with his friends). Today we hiked south from the valley and emerged 7 miles later at ShuHe, a small village about 1 mile from our apartment. 3 showers (one apiece) and one large meal later we feeling moderately capable of facing work tomorrow. It was wonderful to get out and hike for a change-enough buses! Li looked like a real Wyoming cowgirl.